Lard in a flour tortilla — the case for the traditional fat

Every year there are more tortillas made with vegetable shortening or oil, and every year they are a little less good than the lard versions. I am making the case for lard one more time. Lard produces a tortilla with a flakiness that shortening cannot replicate. The fat structure in lard is different from vegetable fat — the lard crystals create small layers in the dough that separate during cooking. The flavour is mild but distinct — slightly porky, slightly nutty, and it interacts with the wheat in a way neutral oils do not. The health argument against lard is also weaker than assumed: lard has a similar fat profile to olive oil, with a relatively high proportion of monounsaturated fat. If you have not made a lard tortilla, make one. Then decide.