Barbacoa — the slow braise that transforms the toughest cuts

Barbacoa is traditionally beef cheek, tongue, or head meat cooked wrapped in maguey leaves in a pit for many hours. At home, the closest approach is a slow braise with a chile-tomato base in a tightly sealed vessel. The cut matters: beef cheek is the right choice for home cooking — it has enough connective tissue to become gelatinous and silky over a long braise. Brisket works as a substitute. Chuck roast is acceptable but less silky. The braise base: guajillo, ancho, chipotle, garlic, onion, cumin, oregano, apple cider vinegar. Blend to a paste, coat the meat, braise tightly covered at 300°F for 3.5-4 hours. The result should pull apart in long fibres with almost no resistance. The braise liquid reduces to a concentrated sauce that is the best thing to eat with the meat.