Atole for cold mornings — the masa drink most people outside Mexico don't know

Atole is a warm, thick drink made from masa, water, and sweetener — often flavoured with chocolate (in which case it becomes champurrado), or with fruit, vanilla, or cinnamon. It is a traditional morning drink in Mexico and it is unlike anything else. The texture is the thing that surprises people: it is somewhere between a drink and a thin porridge, thickened by the starch from the masa. It coats the palate. It is warming in a way that does not feel sugary. Basic recipe: dissolve masa harina in cold water first (prevents lumps), add to hot water with piloncillo and a cinnamon stick, stir constantly as it thickens. For champurrado, add a disc of Mexican chocolate. This is what I drink on cold weekends when I'm making tamales.